Как подготовить землю под картошку осенью: Подготовка земли под картофель осенью, после уборки

8 советов по подготовке почвы под картофель осенью

Картофель считается неприхотливой культурой: в любом месте можно посадить и собрать урожай. Но при таком отношении нельзя получить высокую урожайность. Она зависит от качества выполнения подготовительных работ. Часть из них – осенняя подготовка почвы под посадку картофеля весной. Следующие советы помогут значительно увеличить будущий урожай.

Выбор участка под посадку

Картофель можно успешно выращивать на многих грунтах, подходящих для растений. Более важное значение имеют освещенность отведенной территории и достаточная влажность. Превышение нормы последней крайне негативно влияет на развитие растений. Также увеличивается вероятность возникновения грибковых и бактериальных заболеваний, включая и фитофтороз. Картофель – светолюбивая культура. Недостаточное количество света приводит к вытягиванию ботвы, быстрому пожелтению листьев и слабому цветению. Результат – мелкие клубни и очень скромный урожай.

Определение типа грунта

Картофелю неплохо подходит кислая почва, но лучше всего – слабокислая. Поэтому на средне- и сильнокислых грунтах проводят известкование. Особое внимание нужно обратить на плотность грунта. Недостаточный доступ кислорода ухудшает условия развития корней, которые со временем деформируются.

Рыхление

Осенняя вспашка почвы проводится с целью создания глубокого, рыхлого и хорошо вентилируемого слоя почвы, в котором будет накапливаться и сохраняться необходимое количество влаги. Следует заметить: никакие другие агротехнические работы (полив, подкормка…) не смогут обеспечить достаток кислорода.

Уничтожение сорняков и вредителей

В результате дополнительного рыхления заметно уменьшается количество семян сорняков, ликвидируются возбудители картофельных болезней. При ручной вспашке хорошо бы удалить корневые системы сорняков (пырей) и личинки (майский жук, проволочник).

Подбор правильного севооборота

Лучше посадить картофель на целине. Но на практике приходится менять огородные культуры или садить его на одном и том же месте. В связи с наличием общих вредителей с пасленовыми (помидоры, баклажаны, перец), не рекомендуется высаживать картофель после них. Не подходят также участки, на которых раньше росла капуста. Причина в том, что для борьбы с ее болезнями применяется много извести, что увеличивает вероятность появления у картошки парши. Допускается чередование посадки картофеля со свеклой, кабачками, луком, огурцами, фасолью и горохом. Вернуться на старое место можно спустя 3 или 4 года.

Восстановление плодородности почвы с помощью сидератов

После сбора урожая на участке выполняется посадка быстро всходящих горчицы или кресс-салата. Приблизительно в середине октября зелень нужно скосить, а участок перекопать (глубина около 20 см). Дополнительно такая вспашка уничтожит вредителей, которые окажутся наверху и погибнут от первых заморозков.

Удобрение почвы

Особенно важно вносить питательные вещества на участках без севооборота. В таких случаях грунт в течение нескольких лет истощается и не может самостоятельно возобновиться. Зола хорошо подходит для удобрения грунта, так как содержит много фосфора, кальция, калия и других необходимых для картофеля микроэлементов. 8-19 кг золы расходуется на 100 м². Другие удобрения – компост, навоз и суперфосфат лучше вносить весной.

Установка ловушек для вредителей

С помощью простых устройств можно собрать много медведок и колорадских жуков, которые стали бы угрозой будущего урожая.

Осенняя подготовка грунта на участке очень важна. Стоит прислушаться к простым советам, чтобы следующий урожай вырос богатым и качественным.

Мне нравитсяНе нравится 90000 How To Prepare Garden Potatoes for Long Term Storage 90001 90002 90003 90003 90005 90002 90005 90002 Prepare garden potatoes! If you’re growing potatoes in your garden you’re going to want to prepare garden potatoes for long term storage. You’ll need to know how to cure them properly and how to store them so you can eat your garden goodies for months after harvest. 90005 90002 Here in Phoenix potato planting has just started in the last few weeks. But I am already thinking about my delicious garden potatoes! 90005 90012 90012 90002 One of my garden boxes full of potatoes.But NOT ready to harvest yet! 90005 90002 The first thing you need to know is when to harvest your garden potatoes. I know this is hard, when you’re anxious but it is best to wait until the foliage is dead and dead for a week or more. This time allows the skin of the potatoes to toughen up a bit and they’ll suffer less damage when you’re harvesting. And do not forget to pull back on your watering before you harvest as well. 90005 90018 90019 Prepare Garden Potatoes – Curing 90020 90021 90002 Your next step preparing your garden potatoes for storage is curing them.90005 90024 90025 Lightly brush off excess soil. You do not need to wash your potatoes, in fact getting them wet is a bad idea. 90026 90025 Do your best not to damage the skin of the potato. 90026 90025 Keep them away from light as much as possible or you’ll have light green skins, which you should avoid eating. You may want to toss a light sheet over them to ensure light does not make its way to your spuds. 90026 90025 Choose an area that is going to remain cool. Most will tell you between 45 – 60 degrees F.Well when I pull potatoes it is already warmer than that to begin with. I do keep them as cool as possible. 90026 90025 Humidity helps, 85 – 95% humidity. That’s darn near impossible in Phoenix but I do this in the closet that shares a wall with my shower and it seems to work. 90026 90025 Lay your potatoes out in a single layer, no piles. 90026 90025 Make sure you get good air flow in the area you are curing your potatoes. 90026 90025 After 5 – 7 days turn all your potatoes over. 90026 90025 Allow them to cure / rest for another 5 – 7 days for 10 to 14 days total.90026 90043 90002 90019 Prepare Garden Potatoes – Sort Them 90020 90005 90002 Once you’ve allowed your potatoes to cure you’ll need to sort them. You’ll want to remove any potatoes that are discolored, soft or damaged. If they are just damaged you can probably still eat them, just do it soon so they do not spoil. You do not want anything that shows signs of rot in with your storage – it could ruin the whole crop. 90005 90018 90019 Prepare Garden Potatoes – Storing 90020 90021 90002 It is important to note that thicker skinned potatoes like russets are generally going to store longer.You’re thinner skinned like red potatoes will thicken up some in curing but it is best to use those up first as they will not last as long as the thicker skinned spuds. 90005 90002 These methods should help you to keep your garden potatoes around for months … if you do not eat them faster. But if you do get some sprouts, save those separately for planting in the next season. 90005 90002 Now you are ready to prepare garden potatoes for long term storage. I love growing potatoes – I’m always delighted to see how much one seed potato will offer me.90005 90002 90005.90000 How to Prepare Potatoes Ahead of Time 90001 90002 90003 Jupiterimages / Creatas / Getty Images 90004 90003 Potatoes are a really versatile vegetable that are often used as a side dish for a main meal. They can be mashed, roasted, chipped, sautéed and baked. Cooked potatoes can be placed in the freezer and easily prepared ahead of time. If you prefer the potatoes just to be pre-peeled and cooked fresh, this is also a time-saving option that can be used. If you are only preparing food a day ahead, pre-cooked potatoes can simply be kept in the refrigerator and then there is no need for defrosting.Here are the best ways we recommend whipping them up! 90004 90007 Pre-Peeling Potatoes 90008 90003 Wash all your potatoes that you are going to use. Place them on a chopping board. 90004 90003 Take your potato peeler and peel each potato well. You can use a sharp knife if you prefer. 90004 90003 Wash all the potatoes again and then place in large pot of cold water ensuring that all the potatoes are covered. Add a pinch of salt and a couple of drops of lemon juice. Placing the potatoes in the water will stop them from going brown and you can leave the potatoes in water for up to 48 hours so that they are ready to use.90004 90007 Mashed Potatoes 90008 90003 Place 1 1/2 pounds of potatoes in a saucepan with 1/2 tsp of salt. Add water until potatoes are completely covered. 90004 90003 Place the saucepan on the stove and put on high heat. Bring the water to a boil and then reduce to medium heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Check the potatoes are done by placing a fork in them, if the fork slides through the potato easily, they are done. Drain the potatoes. 90004 90003 Place cream and butter in a saucepan and warm until the butter has melted.Put the potatoes in a large bowl and add the warm melted butter and cream. 90004 90003 Mash the potatoes, adding a little milk to make them creamier. Keep mashing until you achieve the consistency you desire. Add salt and pepper to taste. 90004 90003 Let the mashed potato mix cool and then place in a airtight plastic container with a lid. Make sure the lid is sealed properly. Place the container in the freezer. When you want to use them, take the container out of the freezer and place it in the refrigerator the night before.You can then warm in the microwave for a couple of minutes or place in a dish in the oven set to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. The warming process will take approximately 30 to 40 minutes. 90004 90007 Roasted Potatoes 90008 90003 Prepare roasted potatoes using any method you prefer. After they have nearly completed the cooking process, then place them on a paper towel to soak up any excess oil. Do not allow them to fully cook or when they are reheated they will become mushy and will not keep their firmness.90004 90003 Place them in an airtight plastic container with a lid and place in the freezer. 90004 90003 Use the same method of thawing and reheating as the mashed potatoes. 90004 90035 Tip 90036 90003 You can par-cook french fries, simply cook them as usual but just until they are very slightly brown. Let them cool and place in a freezer bag or container. When you are ready to use let them thaw in the fridge and then place them in hot oil to re-heat and finish. 90004 90035 Warning 90036 90003 Potatoes freeze better when they have been cooked or even par-boiled first.Raw potatoes do not freeze as well. 90004.90000 Is it Necessary to Let Potatoes Sit Out Before Planting Them? | Home Guides 90001 90002 By Kimberley McGee Updated June 11, 2020 90003 90002 Homegrown potatoes often taste better than those that have been processed, bagged and plopped into grocery store produce bins. Cutting seed potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) can ensure you have a healthy and abundant crop in a few weeks or months. 90003 90002 Seed potatoes are designed to create healthy plants and crops. Cutting seed potatoes and planting them correctly will ensure your crops are healthy and abundant and that your gardening time is well spent.Seed potatoes are bred to be sown in the garden bed or a suitable container, while grocery store potatoes may need more help to thrive. 90003 90008 Tip 90009 90002 Leaving cut seed potatoes out before planting can prevent dry rot. 90003 90012 Seed vs. Grocery Store Potatoes 90013 90002 Potatoes are generally an easy crop to grow from those you’ve brought home from the store and forgot to use. However, simply sticking a spud in the ground will produce a lackluster crop. The spuds that sprout in your pantry or fridge can be planted in a freshly dug hole in your garden.However, the potato that arrives at the grocery store may be contaminated with viral plant diseases or blight spores. This can cause problems in the garden and with the plant’s growth. 90003 90002 The potatoes you buy in the grocery store for mashing, broiling or baking have been treated with a sprout inhibitor. This prevents the potatoes ‘eyes from sprouting as the spud makes its way from the farm to the produce section of your neighborhood grocery store. 90003 90002 A seed potato has been grown to be virus-free and ready to be prepared for planting.Typically, heirloom or heritage-seed potatoes are grown in sterile lab conditions to ensure that they are completely disease-free and will yield generous crops. 90003 90020 Seed Potato Basics 90013 90002 An ideal seed potato is firm and free from any blemishes on the skin. Seed potatoes with short green sprouts are healthy, while those that have formed long, white and thin sprouts are past their prime. The spindly pale sprouts are rather fragile and can break off when planted. The seed potato categories will help you to choose which kind you prefer to grow for your needs, according to Gardening Know How.90003 90002 Many varieties can be stored well in a root cellar or dark pantry space so that you can have fresh potatoes any time of the year. Once you’ve decided on the type of seed potato you intend to plant, you need to determine the physiological age of the spud. A seed potato’s age can be determined by its sprouts. 90003 90002 Most seed crops come from northern areas, such as Idaho, Colorado and Maine. The climate is better suited for growing high-quality and disease-free seed crops.A new potato has fragile skin and does not cure in the ground in the heat of summer and are harvested off plants that are still growing. 90003 90028 Best Seed Potatoes to Plant 90013 90002 A young seed has a few new sprouts emerging from the eyes at the ends of the potato and will produce a plant with just a few stems. This can lead to a low crop yield but possibly larger individual potatoes. A middle-aged seed has multiple stubby sprouts and will have a high crop yield. 90003 90002 Old seed potatoes have reedier, hairier sprouts that are weak and will affect the growth of the plant.While you may get a lot of potatoes to grow, the plants do not have the energy to create large tubers. A seed potato with sprouts that appear to be growing tiny duplicates of the main tuber, called “no tops,” should be discarded. 90003 90034 Categories of Seed Potatoes 90013 90002 When you begin to look at potato seeds for sale, there are a few categories from which to choose based on when it’s ready to harvest. For instance, seed potatoes for salads are the early, waxy varieties, according to Gardeners ‘World.90003 90038 90039 First Early – Plant in early spring and through the later part of the season and protect from frost. They will produce small potatoes in about 10 weeks. 90040 90039 Second Early – Can take up to three months to produce a bountiful harvest after being planted in mid spring. The small, new potatoes are ideal for growing in containers and using in salads. 90040 90039 Maincrop – Planted in the ground in spring, these will produce large potatoes in about 20 weeks, according to Thompson & Morgan.90040 90039 Late Maincrop – Also called second crop, these can be sown in August and through autumn and produce a crop within about 11 weeks. Protect the plants from frost if you live in a cold climate. 90040 90047 90048 About Presprouting Potatoes 90013 90002 The practice of presprouting, or green sprouting, potatoes encourages early growth, improves yields and speeds up the production of the tubers underground. That fast, early growth is beneficial to growing the potatoes. Cut seed potato size should be about the size of an egg.Leave them out for a few days to prevent dry rot, according to Better Homes & Gardens. 90003 90002 Watch over the cut seed potatoes. The quicker that the potatoes are sown, grown and harvested, the less chance of pests finding their way to the healthy leaves or tubers or bad weather descending and destroying otherwise-thriving crops. While green sprouting takes more time than simply shoving a cut spud into the ground, it can significantly improve the overall productivity of the crop. 90003 90002 Spread out the seed potatoes in an egg carton with the seed end, or eyes, pointing up.Place them on a kitchen counter, in a garage or in another fairly warm area with a temperature of 60 to 70 degrees for a few weeks. Do not place them in direct sunlight, which can stunt the growth of each seed potato’s shoots. Once sturdy green shoots about 1/2 to 1 inches in length appear, they are ready to be planted. Place them in a hole that is 3 inches deep. 90003 90056 Preparing Potatoes for Planting 90013 90002 Small seed potatoes, roughly the size of an egg, can be sown directly into the prepared garden bed.The larger varieties of seed potatoes will need to be cut into several pieces. The longer they are left out, the more they may be damaged by sun or exposed to pests and disease. 90003 90002 When cutting seed potatoes, the tubers need to be warmed and cooled. Young seed potatoes should be cut and held at around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The larger seed potatoes need to be cut into pieces. The ideal weight for a seed potato to be sown into an outdoor gardening bed or container is about 1.5 to 2 ounces.90003 90002 A pound of seed potatoes will take up a 6-foot or 8-foot outdoor gardening bed. The closer you plant the cut or whole seed potatoes, the smaller the potatoes will be at harvest time. When planting, space them about 8 to 12 inches apart for standard varieties. Fingerling seed potatoes need more room, so place them a foot to 16 inches apart. One pound of planted seed potatoes will yield 10 pounds at harvest time. 90003.90000 How to Plant Potatoes in Containers 90001 90002 Before planting your potatoes in the container you need to decide if you will “earth up” or not as they grow. To earth up the potatoes is simply planting them in compost and when the foliage appears above soil level you cover it with more compost. This process is repeated until the compost reaches just below the rim of the container. 90003 90004 WHEN TO PLANT POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90005 90006 The key factor in deciding when to plant potatoes in containers is the date of the last frost in your area.The other factor to take into account is that you are growing potatoes in containers and you can move your containers to a frost free position if a frost threatens. But you do not want to plant the potato seed so early that you are moving the potatoes in and out of cover every other day. 90002 It’s a fine balance between risk and effort against the opportunity to have potatoes in containers earlier than those grown in the open. So we recommend you estimate your last frost date (for example it’s 5th May in Birmingham) and plant your seed potatoes five weeks before that date (which will be late March in Birmingham).90003 90002 For two weeks after planting, the foliage will still be below soil level leaving you with a frost risk period of about three weeks. 90003 90002 Click 90004 here 90005 for what to do if a late frost threatens to damage your potato plants. 90003 90002 For example, the last average frost date in Birmingham (about average for the UK) is around 5th May. When we say “average last frost date” it means that a frost is statistically likely after that date in only one year out of seven.Using the above calculations of planting out potato seed five weeks before the last frost date we would plant out our potato seed towards the end of March. 90003 90002 Your last frost date depends entirely on where you are in the UK. Also be aware that frosts can vary considerably over very small distances. So take advice from more experienced neighbours in your area if you are not sure of your last likely frost date. 90003 90002 90004 BENEFITS OF EARTHING UP POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90006 90005 First, earthing up is only feasible if the container you are using is 60cm (2ft) high or more.Any less and it’s best not to earth up. Also, it’s not worth doing with first early potatoes (their growth is too fast) only with maincrop and second early potatoes. 90003 90002 When you do earth up potatoes, the main stem becomes extended and the potato plant will grow more potatoes from this extended stem. Your crop of potatoes will be larger if you earth up and also fewer potatoes will be green. 90003 90002 90004 PLANTING POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90005 90003 90002 90003 90002 If you plan to earth up your potatoes then you need to fill your container to roughly one third full with general purpose potting compost.For a container 60cm (2ft) high by 30cm (1ft) in diameter place two or three seed potatoes on top of the compost with the eyes or the sprouts (if you have chitted your potatoes) uppermost. In some cases there may be eyes or sprouts on both sides (see left). 90003 90002 90035 90036 90006 90004 VIDEO – PLANT POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90005 90003 90002 In that case, position the potatoes so that the majority of the eyes / sprouts are pointing upwards. 90003 90002 Gently firm the seed potatoes into the compost being carful not to break off the sprouts and cover with a further 10cm of compost so that the seed potatoes are well under the surface of the compost.We will explain how to earth up the potatoes in the next page of this article. If the sides of your container are flexible then roll them down to just above the level of the compost (see right) 90003 90002 90003 90002 This will ensure that the sunlight can reach the foliage as soon as it pokes through the compost. It will also assist natural rainwater to land on the compost surface and be absorbed. 90003 90002 If you do not plan to earth up your potatoes then fill the container to about 20cm (8in) from the top of the container and place your seed potatoes on the compost surface as described above.Fill the remainder of the pot with compost over the seed potatoes to within 3cm of the top of the container. 90003 90002 In either case, scatter a handful or two of blood, fish and bone (bonemeal will also do well) on the surface of the compost and lightly work it in with your hands. This can be done in a few days time if you do not have this fertiliser available at the moment. Blood, fish and bone or bonemeal are long lasting fertilisers which will feed the potatoes over a long period of time.90003 90002 If the compost is dry, water the container well. Until the foliage starts to emerge above the compost you can position the container wherever you want. Anywhere warm is best, but not critical. However, if a frost is likely, move the container to place where frost can not get to it. Do not forget to label the container with the potato variety and the date planted. 90003 90002 Depending on the variety of potato and the weather conditions, you should start to see foliage poking its way through the compost in about ten days time.Keep a watch for this because as soon as it happens the container must be placed in a position that receives the maximum light (if it not already in that position). 90003 90002 90004 NEXT STEPS 90005 90006 Soon after the foliage of your potato appears above the soil it will be time to start the earthing up process and general care. Click that link below or the “Next potato page” at the bottom of the page. If you want to skip to another subject in this series click on one of the links below.90003 90002 HOW TO CHIT / SPROUT POTATOES 90003 90002 PREPARING TO PLANT YOUR POTATOES 90003 90002 90004 CARING FOR POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90005 90003 90002 HARVESTING POTATOES IN CONTAINERS 90003 90002 HOW TO STORE POTATOES 90003 90002 GROWING POTATOES IN CONTAINERS FOR CHRISTMAS 90003 90002 90004 GO TO NEXT POTATO PAGE 90005 90006 90003.