Хранение картошки на балконе: оптимальная температура, выбор ящика и другие особенности хранения

Как сделать ящик для хранения картофеля на балконе зимой: своими руками

Повышенная температура или влажность ведут к высыханию и загниванию картофеля, а промерзшие клубни приобретают неприятный вкус и начинают портиться. Чтобы хранить урожай в условиях квартиры, где невозможно создать такие же условия, как в погребе, можно сделать ящик для картошки на балконе своими руками. В нем клубни до весны останутся свежими.

Как хранить картошку на балконе зимой

В отопительный сезон воздух в жилых помещениях очень сухой и теплый, поэтому держать картошку в квартире нельзя – она начнет прорастать или сохнуть. Как правило, ее хранят на балконе. Держать ее в стандартных овощных ящиках можно не всегда, только если там неизменно держится оптимальная для клубней температура (+0–6 °С) и влажность (40–85 %).

При какой температуре овощи начинают портиться:

1. Уже при – 1–2 °С они промерзают.
2. Кратковременное повышение до + 10 °С не повредит, но продолжительное потепление способно спровоцировать прорастание или высыхание клубней.

Кроме того, на овощи не должен попадать свет – ни искусственный, ни солнечный. Если это условие не соблюдено, клубни начнут накапливать соланин, из-за которого картофель становится непригодным для употребления. О наличии этого вещества свидетельствуют зеленые пятна на кожуре.

Выдержать все эти условия сложно, даже если балкон застеклен. Поэтому для хранения овоща используют специальные короба, внутри которых создается подходящий для картофеля микроклимат.

Особенности хранения в зависимости от типа балкона

Наличие или отсутствие остекления и отопления, климат региона – все это влияет на температуру на балконе. И подбирать тип короба нужно, учитывая эти факторы.

При условии, что всю зиму на балконе температура держится в районе 0–+6 °С, изредка немного повышаясь или опускаясь, допустимо использовать простой ларь без дополнительного утепления. Перед предполагаемыми заморозками на него достаточно накинуть ветошь, чтобы защитить запасы от промерзания.

Важно помнить: если короб будет стоять на открытом балконе, нужно проследить, чтобы на него не попадали осадки. Над ним можно соорудить навес или укрыть полиэтиленовой пленкой. Последнюю размещают так, чтобы она не перекрывала отверстия для вентиляции в ларе.

Если же балкон застеклен, но не отапливается, а в регионе бывают регулярные заморозки, потребуется контейнер с утеплением без подогрева. В местах с суровым климатом придется сделать утепленный ларь с отоплением.

Как сделать ящик для хранения картофеля на балконе зимой

Ящики для хранения бывают нескольких видов. Они могут различаться по виду: утепленные, неутепленные, обогреваемые.

По типу загрузки их делят на:

• вертикальные, когда крышка располагается сверху;
• горизонтальные, в которых дверцы находятся на фасаде или сбоку.

Размеры и форма могут быть любыми. Они зависят площади балкона, наличия свободного места и объемов урожая, который требуется сохранить. Так, на небольших и тесных балконах изготавливают высокие узкие ящики. На стандартных чаще всего делают ларь во всю ширину помещения. Боковые поверхности его будут упираться в стены, а крышка может использоваться как полка или место для сидения в теплое время года.

Материалы и инструменты

Короб представляет собой каркас из бруса сечением 4*4 и более см, обшитый досками, вагонкой, ДСП, ОСБ. Листовой материал берут минимум 5 мм.

Кроме древесины потребуются:

• саморезы;
• шуруповерт;
• сверло по дереву;
• крепежные уголки;
• электролобзик;
• рулетка;
• уровень;
• петли мебельные;
• маркер для разметки.

Простой ящик без утепления

Работу начинают с определения оптимального размера короба. Вычисляют параметры будущего изделия. При необходимости рисуют схему. Из бруса нарезают по 4 детали размером с высоту (чтобы не запутаться при монтаже, их можно промаркировать – a), ширину (b) и длину (c).

Собирают из них каркас:

1. Кладут на пол по 2 бруска c и b так, чтобы они образовали прямоугольник.
2. С помощью крепежных уголков и саморезов соединяют. Можно обойтись и без уголков, но с ними конструкция будет прочнее.
3. На углы получившейся рамы ставят вертикально бруски a. Проверяют ровность их положения с помощью уровня, при необходимости выравнивают. Прикручивают саморезами на уголки.
4. Соединяют торцы стоек оставшимися брусками b и c.

Каркас готов.

Если для обшивки используют листовой материал, переходят к выкраиванию деталей. На листе фанеры или ДСП с помощью линейки размечают 2 прямоугольника размерами a*b, 2 – b*c, еще 2 – a*c. Вырезают их электролобзиком.

Деталь b*c прикладывают ко дну каркаса, прикручивают ее саморезами. На боковых стенках закрепляют прямоугольники a*c. Переднюю и тыльную стороны обшивают деталями a*b. Оставшийся элемент b*c – крышка. Ее прикручивают с помощью петель к задней части каркаса. Используя сверло, на дне короба проделывают вентиляционные отверстия.

При желании короб можно покрасить или покрыть лаком. Чтобы он служил одновременно и местом для сидения, крышку обтягивают мебельной тканью, кожей или кожзаменителем. Материал для крышки в этом случае берут большей толщины, чтобы под тяжестью он не сломался. Выкраивают из мебельной ткани лоскут, стороны которого на 15–20 см больше деревянной основы. Сначала на крышку кладут лист поролона. На него накладывают ткань, с помощью мебельного степлера закрепляют края с нижней стороны, слегка натягивая.

Другой вариант – обшивка каркаса вагонкой или досками. Начинают со дна, размещая планки на расстоянии нескольких мм друг от друга. Сквозь эти щели к овощам будет поступать свежий воздух, и дополнительных отверстий сверлить не придется. После обшивают боковые стенки.

Для крышки из реек делают раму, по размеру совпадающую с дном, на нее прикрепляют планки, затем петлями фиксируют на каркасе.

Если короб по проекту высокий и узкий, то доставать картофель со дна будет неудобно. Чтобы решить эту проблему, делают частично разборные ящики.

Для этого:

1. Фасад обшивают вагонкой снизу примерно до середины, прикрепляя планки на саморезы к каркасу.
2. Замеряют высоту не обшитого участка, добавляют 5 см. Из металлического уголка нарезают 2 детали нужной длины.
3. Прикладывают к каркасу так, чтобы одна сторона уголка соприкасалась с боковой стороной короба. Вторая сторона будет располагаться на небольшом расстоянии от бруса каркаса не обитой стороны. Нижняя часть уголка должна заходить примерно на 50 мм на вагонку. Фиксируют уголок саморезами. Вторую деталь закрепляют тем же способом с другой стороны.
4. В итоге получаются 2 направляющие, в которые легко вставить вагонку, чтобы закрыть фасад короба полностью. Когда потребуется, планки снимут, чтобы без усилий вынуть из ящика остатки картофеля.

Нежелательно, чтобы картофель располагался близко к бетонному полу – от него в морозы может идти холод. На не утепленном или не застекленном балконе ящик рекомендуется установить на ножки либо положить на дно лист пенопласта или старую ветошь. Ножки легко сделать из остатков бруса, нарезав его на 10-сантиметровые детали и прикрепив их ко дну саморезами.

Ларь с утеплением

Самое простое и малозатратное решение – изготовление конструкции из 2 коробок (ящиков) разного размера. Они должны помещаться один в другой так, чтобы расстояние между стенками было 5 или более см.

На дно первой коробки насыпают слой опилок или кладут пенопласт. Ставят меньшую коробку в нее. Пространство между стенками заполняют опилками. Такая засыпка убережет клубни от кратковременных морозов. Для мест, где отрицательные температуры держатся длительное время, подобное решение не подойдет.

Более надежную конструкцию делают на основе каркасного ящика, однако обшивают его не только с внешней стороны, но и с внутренней. Ячейки, образованные между 2 слоями обшивки, заполняют теплоизолирующим материалом.

Чем утеплить ящик:

• пенопластом;
• пеноплексом;
• опилками;
• фольгированным изолоном.

Минеральную вату применять не рекомендуется – она хорошо впитывает влагу, а после отсыревания теряет свои теплоизолирующие свойства.

Порядок утепления:

1. Собирают каркас ящика, обшивают с внешней стороны.
2. Кладут на дно утеплитель, сверху закрывают внутренней обшивкой, фиксируют саморезами. Элементы внутренней обшивки выпиливают из того же материала, что и для наружной, однако размеры их должны быть уменьшены на толщину бруса. Например, для короба из бруса 5*5 см длиной 80 см и шириной 1 м потребуется деталь размером 90*70 см.
3. Таким же образом утепляют боковые, переднюю и заднюю стенки.
4. На внутреннюю поверхность крышки с помощью степлера прикрепляют изолон.

С подогревом

Простейшую систему подогрева можно сделать из лампы накаливания. Выделяемого ею тепла достаточно для поддержания положительной температуры в коробе среднего размера. Если ларь большой, или погодные условия в регионе суровые, потребуются 2 лампы.

Перед установкой их нужно покрасить черной краской, чтобы заглушить свет. Плафон закрепляют на крышке утепленного ящика, проделывают в ней отверстие и выводят кабель питания. Чтобы снизить риск возгорания, желательно на крышку вокруг лампы прибить лист металла, а саму лампу поместить в отрезок металлической трубы.

Обогрев не должен работать постоянно. Его включают, когда температура на балконе опускается ниже нуля. Чтобы было проще контролировать температуру в ларе, можно установить внутри него термометр.

Герметичный ящик

Воздухонепроницаемый короб используют на балконах, где температура держится чуть ниже 0 °С. Однако для того, чтобы уберечь картофель от порчи, его необходимо периодически открывать для проветривания.

Изготавливают герметичный ларь так же, как обычный неутепленный, но все внутренние поверхности обшивают изолоном. Места стыков проклеивают фольгированным скотчем.

Чтобы крышка плотно прилегала к ящику, к ее внутренней стороне по периметру (в месте соприкосновения с каркасом) приклеивают резиновый уплотнитель.

Правила хранения картофеля в ящике

Чтобы урожай не испортился, необходимо соблюдать некоторые правила при закладке и хранении клубней:

1. Прежде чем поместить овощи в ящик, их внимательно осматривают, удаляют подгнившие и слишком мягкие. Если в них завелись мушки, убирают и пораженные насекомыми картофелины, и те, что соприкасались с ними.
2. Мыть клубни не рекомендуется – они начнут портиться раньше. Следует аккуратно очистить их от грязи, предварительно слегка подсушив.
3. В течение всего периода хранения нужно перебирать овощи, своевременно удаляя начавшие загнивать.

Специальный ящик – практически единственный способ сохранить большой объем картофеля в условиях городской квартиры. Его необязательно покупать, можно сделать его самостоятельно, используя доступные материалы.

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The multitude of varieties do not only differ in texture like being waxy or mealy, but also whether they are early or late season potatoes.90003 90004 Plant Profile 90005 90006 90007 200 Potato varieties 90008 90007 not only waxy but also mealy cooked 90008 90007 also early potatoes 90008 90007 are being harvested from May / June 90008 90007 potatoes only for consumption 90008 90007 Medium early potatoes 90008 90007 Normally from July / August 90008 90007 Late potatoes 90008 90007 should be harvested before first frosting occurs 90008 90007 potatoes can be stored 90008 90007 when harvesting, keep an eye on the ripening time of the varieties 90008 90029 90002 Potatoes can be served in many various way and are thus still very popular among Germans.That is why more and more hobby gardeners want to cultivate and harvest their own potatoes. This is the point in time where the question arises about the right and best time to harvest potatoes. 90003 90002 This is not that easy to answer however as there are early and late season varieties. It is nevertheless fact that the first early season potatoes are available to be harvested towards the end of May / start of June and that potatoes should not be left in the ground while there is frost. 90003 .90000 What’s the Best Way to Store Potatoes? 90001 90002 Potatoes are a staple in many cultures and have been enjoyed for over 10,000 years (1). 90003 90002 In addition to being rich in potassium, they’re a great source of carbs and fiber (2). 90003 90002 These tasty tubers can be prepared in many ways, but they are typically baked, boiled, roasted, fried or dehydrated. 90003 90002 Proper storage can extend their shelf life and prevent unnecessary waste. 90003 90002 This article reviews the best storage techniques and includes tips for selecting the freshest potatoes.90003 90002 Storage temperature has a significant impact on how long potatoes will last. 90003 90002 When stored between 43-50 ° F (6-10 ° C), raw potatoes will keep for many months without spoiling (3). 90003 90002 This temperature range is slightly warmer than refrigeration and can be found in cool cellars, basements, garages or sheds. 90003 90002 Storing potatoes in these conditions can help delay the formation of sprouts on the skin, one of the first signs of spoilage. 90003 90002 In fact, one study found that storing potatoes in cool temperatures more than quadrupled their shelf life, compared to storing them at room temperature (3).90003 90002 Storing at lower temperatures also helps preserve their vitamin C content. 90003 90002 Research showed that potatoes stored in cool temperatures maintained up to 90% of their vitamin C content for four months, while those stored in warmer room temperatures lost almost 20% of their vitamin C after one month (3, 4). 90003 90002 Storing at temperatures slightly above refrigeration is a great way to extend shelf life and maintain vitamin C content. 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Storing potatoes in a cool place helps slow their rate of sprouting and maintains their vitamin C content.90031 90002 Sunlight or fluorescent light can cause potato skins to produce chlorophyll and turn an undesirable green color (1). 90003 90002 While the chlorophyll that turns skins green is harmless, sun exposure can produce large amounts of a toxic chemical called solanine. 90003 90002 Many people discard green potatoes due to their higher solanine levels (5). 90003 90002 Solanine creates a bitter taste and causes a burning sensation in the mouths or throats of people who are sensitive to it (6).90003 90002 Solanine is also toxic to humans when consumed in very high quantities and can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. A few cases of death have even been reported (7). 90003 90002 However, many countries have mandatory guidelines that limit the amount of solanine in commercial potatoes to under 91 mg per pound (200 mg / kg), so this is not a common concern (8, 9). 90003 90002 Solanine is almost exclusively located in the peel and first 1 / 8th inch (3.2 mm) of the flesh. Paring the skin and underlying green flesh can remove most of it (5).90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Storing potatoes in the dark prevents them from turning green and developing a high solanine content, which can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea when consumed in high quantities. 90031 90002 While cool temperatures are ideal for potato storage, refrigeration and freezing are not. 90003 90002 Very low temperatures can cause “cold-induced sweetening.” This happens when some of the starch is converted to reducing sugars (10). 90003 90002 Reducing sugars can form carcinogenic substances, known as acrylamides, when fried or exposed to very high cooking temperatures, so it’s best to keep levels low (11, 12).90003 90002 Uncooked potatoes should also never be stored in the freezer. 90003 90002 When exposed to freezing temperatures, the water inside potatoes expands and forms crystals that break down the cell wall structures. This makes them mushy and unusable when defrosted (13). 90003 90002 Raw potatoes can also turn brown when exposed to air in the freezer. 90003 90002 This is because the enzymes that cause browning are still active in the potato, even under freezing temperatures (14). 90003 90002 It’s okay to freeze them once they are fully or partially cooked, as the cooking process deactivates the browning enzymes and prevents them from discoloring (15).90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Raw potatoes should not be kept in the refrigerator, as cold temperatures increase the amounts of reducing sugars and make them more carcinogenic when fried or roasted. They should also not be frozen, as they will become mushy and brown after defrosting. 90031 90002 Potatoes need airflow to prevent the accumulation of moisture, which can lead to spoilage. 90003 90002 The best way to allow free circulation of air is to store them in an open bowl or paper bag. 90003 90002 Do not store them in a sealed container without ventilation, such as a zipped plastic bag or lidded glassware.90003 90002 Without air circulation, the moisture released from the potatoes will collect inside the container and promote the growth of mold and bacteria (16). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 To help your potatoes last longer, keep them in an open bowl, paper bag or another container with holes for ventilation. This helps prevent moisture accumulation, which leads to spoiling. 90031 90002 Since potatoes are grown underground, they often have dirt on their skins. 90003 90002 While it may be tempting to rinse off the dirt before storing, they will last longer if you keep them dry.90003 90002 This is because washing adds moisture, which promotes the growth of fungus and bacteria. 90003 90002 Wait until you are ready to use them, then rinse and scrub them with a vegetable brush to remove any remaining dirt. 90003 90002 If pesticides are a concern, rinsing with a 10% vinegar or salt solution can remove more than twice as much residue as water alone (17). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Potatoes will last much longer if they remain dry during storage and are not washed until they’re ready to be used.Washing with a salt or vinegar solution can help remove more pesticide residue than water alone. 90031 90002 Many fruits and vegetables release ethylene gas as they ripen, which helps soften the fruit and increase its sugar content (18). 90003 90002 If stored in close proximity, ripening produce can make raw potatoes sprout and soften more quickly (19). 90003 90002 Therefore, do not store potatoes near ripening fruits and vegetables, especially bananas, apples, onions and tomatoes, as they release relatively large amounts of ethylene (18).90003 90002 While no studies have looked at how far potatoes should be kept from ripening fruits or vegetables, storing at opposite ends of a cool, dark, well-ventilated pantry is likely effective. 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Store potatoes away from ripening produce, especially bananas, tomatoes and onions, since the ethylene gas they release can make the potatoes sprout more quickly. 90031 90002 Most people purchase potatoes from their local market, but if you grow your own, “curing” before storing will extend their shelf life.90003 90002 Curing involves storing at moderately high temperatures, typically around 65 ° F (18 ° C), and 85-95% humidity levels for two weeks. 90003 90002 You can use a small dark closet or empty stand-up shower with a space heater and bowl of water, or an empty oven left slightly ajar, lit with a 40-watt light bulb for heat and bowl of water for humidity. 90003 90002 These conditions allow the skins to thicken and help heal any minor injuries that may have occurred during harvesting, reducing the chances of decay during storage (20).90003 90002 Cured potatoes can be kept in a cool, dark place with good ventilation for long-term storage. 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Freshly picked potatoes should be “cured” in warmer temperatures and high humidity for a few weeks to allow the skin to thicken and blemishes to heal. This helps extend their storage life. 90031 90002 Once peeled and sliced, raw potatoes quickly discolor when exposed to air. 90003 90002 This is because they contain an enzyme called polyphenol oxidase, which reacts with oxygen and turns the flesh a grey or brownish color.90003 90002 You can prevent discoloration by covering peeled and cut slices with an inch or two of water and refrigerating them until you’re ready to use them (1). 90003 90002 The water protects them from air and prevents enzymatic browning. 90003 90002 However, if left in water for more than 24 hours, they can absorb too much water and become soggy and tasteless. Only use this technique for potatoes that will be cooked the same day. 90003 90002 For longer storage, consider vacuum packing, a technique in which all the air is removed from a package and it’s tightly sealed.90003 90002 Vacuum-packed potatoes will last up to one week in the refrigerator (21). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Raw potatoes turn brown or grey when exposed to air, so they should be cooked quickly or stored in water until ready to use. If keeping them longer than one day after prepping, remove from water, vacuum pack and store in the fridge. 90031 90002 Cooked potatoes will last for several days in the refrigerator. 90003 90002 However, leftovers may become watery or gummy, since potato starches change shape and release water as they cool (22).90003 90002 Cooking and cooling also increase the formation of resistant starch, a type of carbohydrate that humans can not digest and absorb. 90003 90002 This can be a good thing for those with blood sugar issues, since it reduces the glycemic index by about 25% and causes a much smaller spike in blood sugar after eating (23, 24). 90003 90002 Resistant starch also promotes gut health, since gut bacteria ferment it and produce short chain fatty acids, which help keep the lining of your large intestine healthy and strong (25, 26, 27).90003 90002 While cooked and cooled potatoes have some health benefits, they should be eaten within three or four days to avoid spoilage and food poisoning (28). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Cooked potatoes can be stored in the refrigerator for up to four days. The cooling process increases the formation of resistant starch, which has a smaller impact on blood sugar levels and promotes the growth of healthy gut bacteria. 90031 90002 If you do not plan on eating cooked potatoes within a few days, it’s best to store them in the freezer.90003 90002 Cooked leftovers can be stored in the freezer without browning, since cooking destroys the enzymes responsible for discoloration (15). 90003 90002 Like all frozen products, leftover potatoes will last longest if they are protected from air while in the freezer. 90003 90002 Use a plastic bag or storage container and press all the air out of it before sealing. 90003 90002 Research shows that frozen, cooked potato products can last up to one year without any significant changes in quality (13).90003 90002 When you’re ready to eat them, let them defrost in the refrigerator overnight before heating and serving. This results in a better texture than defrosting in a microwave (29). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Leftover cooked potatoes can be stored in the freezer for up to one year. Store in airtight containers to preserve quality and defrost overnight in the refrigerator before using. 90031 90002 Potatoes will last longest if they are fresh and healthy when purchased. 90003 90002 When selecting, look for the following characteristics: 90003 90176 90177 90029 Firm to the touch: 90030 Soft potatoes have already begun to degrade, so look for firm, bright qualities.90180 90177 90029 Smooth skin: 90030 Potatoes that have been damaged by cold temperatures may develop pitted skin and brown centers, so look for smooth textures. 90180 90177 90029 Free of bruises or injuries: 90030 Sometimes potatoes can be damaged during harvest or transport. Avoid those with visible injuries, as they will spoil more quickly. 90180 90177 90029 No sprouting: 90030 Sprouts are one of the first indicators of spoilage, so avoid purchasing any that have already sprouted. 90180 90193 90002 You may also consider trying some of the more exotic potato varieties, such as those with blue or purple flesh.90003 90002 Studies show that vibrantly colored varieties contain much larger amounts of antioxidants than traditional white potatoes (30). 90003 90028 90029 Summary 90030 Fresh and healthy potatoes last the longest, so look for firm smooth ones without any blemishes or sprouts. Consider trying blue or purple varieties, as they contain high levels of antioxidants. 90031 90002 Knowing the best ways to store potatoes can extend their shelf life and reduce food waste. 90003 90002 Store uncooked potatoes in a cool, dark place with plenty of air circulation – not in the refrigerator.90003 90002 Prevent cut and peeled slices from browning by covering them with water or vacuum sealing. 90003 90002 Cooked potatoes can be kept in the refrigerator for up to four days, or in an airtight container in the freezer for up to one year. 90003 90002 In regards to homegrown potatoes, cure them briefly at warmer temperatures and high humidity before long-term storage. 90003 90002 Regardless of storage method, potatoes will last longer if they are fresh and healthy when purchased, so look for firm, smooth, blemish-free tubers with no signs of sprouting.90003 90214 How to Peel Potatoes 90215.90000 When to Harvest Potatoes in Garden Beds and Containers 90001 90002 90003 This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on an affiliate link and make a purchase, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Find our full disclosure here. 90004 90005 90002 Potatoes are one of the easiest crops to grow producing a bounty of tasty tubers when planted in garden beds and containers. Plus, there’s so many awesome potato varieties to grow – from fingerlings to russets – in a rainbow of colors.But as the crop is produced below ground, it’s hard to tell when the tubers are ready to dig. So, how DO you know when to harvest potatoes? 90005 90002 Do not wash potatoes after harvesting unless you’re about to eat them. Instead, cure them for one to two weeks and then store in a cool, dark place. 90005 90010 90011 When to harvest potatoes? 90012 90013 90002 Harvesting potatoes is so much fun, even the kids will want to help. It’s like digging for buried treasure – treasure you can eat! There are two main types of potatoes: new potatoes and storage potatoes, and both harvesting time and techniques differ between the two types.Because I want both new potatoes for summer cooking and storage potatoes for fall and winter, I plant at least one bed of each. Figuring out when to harvest potatoes can be a challenge for new gardeners, but once you know the basics, timing the harvest is a snap! 90005 90002 90011 New Potatoes – 90012 All potatoes can be new potatoes if harvested when the tubers are still small and thin-skinned, about 50 to 55 days from planting for early maturing varieties. The first sign that new potatoes have formed is the appearance of the flowers.At that point, feel free to start harvesting. 90005 90002 90011 Storage Potatoes – 90012 Storage potatoes, also called main-crop potatoes, are ready at the end of the growing season when the foliage has turned yellow and begun to dry. Some gardeners cut off the foliage while others allow it to die back naturally. Either way, the tubers need to be left in the ground for about two more weeks. This allows the skins to thicken up, which results in better storage quality. 90005 90002 Do not be shy about trying some of the awesome varieties of potatoes available through catalogs and in garden centres.Caribe is a gorgeous purple skinned variety with bright white flesh. it’s not a long storage type, but makes a wonderful new potato. 90005 90010 90011 How to harvest potatoes 90012 90013 90002 Pick a dry day to harvest potatoes as moisture can spread disease and rot. What’s the best way to harvest? Carefully! Try to avoid piercing or slicing the potatoes when digging the tubers. If your spade does slip, eat damaged potatoes right away. I find it handy to keep a bowl nearby for damaged tubers which then head directly to the kitchen.90005 90002 90033 New Potatoes – 90034 When the plants begin to flower you can start harvesting new potatoes by reaching into the side of the hill and taking a few tubers from each plant. I use a gloved hand, not a tool, for this task as I do not want to damage the plants and I want to keep my hands (relatively) clean. Once you’ve harvested a few new potatoes, push the soil back in place and mound it around the plants. 90005 90002 If harvesting new potatoes from a container or potato grow bag, reach into the soil to feel around for the tubers, taking just a few from each plant at any one time.After harvesting new potatoes from in-ground or container plants, feed them with a fish emulsion fertilizer to encourage healthy growth and more tubers. 90005 90002 90033 Storage Potatoes – 90034 To harvest storage potatoes, insert a garden fork about a foot away from the plant and gently lift the root mass. There may still be a few potatoes in the ground, so use a gloved hand to feel around for any missed tubers. Once harvested, gently brush off caked on soil and allow them to dry off for an hour or so outdoors.Do not wash the tubers. 90005 90002 Container grown storage potatoes can be easily harvested by dumping the container onto a tarp or in a wheelbarrow. Sift through the soil with your hands to grab all of the tubers. 90005 90002 Kids love to help dig potatoes in the garden – and they may even eat their veggies! 90005 90010 90011 How to store potatoes 90012 90013 90002 Before they can be stored, potatoes need to go through a curing process. This helps the skin thicken up and extends the storage life of the tubers.To cure potatoes, lay them on newspaper, trays, or cardboard in a cool, dark spot (50 to 60 F, 10 to 15 C) with high humidity for one to two weeks. Pick a location that offers good air circulation. 90005 90002 Once cured, move the potatoes (removing any that have signs of damage) to bushel baskets, cardboard boxes (with ventilation holes poked in the sides), low baskets, or brown paper bags. You can also find multiple drawer harvest storage at many garden supply stores. Do not pile them too deeply, however as that can encourage rot to spread.Cover containers with cardboard or sheets of newspaper to block light. 90005 90002 The storage area should be cooler than the curing site and be dark and well-ventilated. I use a corner of my basement, but a root cellar is best if you have one. Aim for a temperature of 40 to 45 F (4.5 to 7 C) with high humidity. Under ideal conditions, storage potatoes can retain quality for six to eight months. Check tubers regularly and remove any that show signs of rot or shrivelling. 90005 90002 The thin skin that makes new potatoes so appealing limits their storage life to weeks not months.Therefore, enjoy new potatoes soon after harvesting them. 90005 90002 90033 For a tutorial on when to harvest potatoes and how to do it right, check out this video by Savvy’s Jessica Walliser. 90034 90005 90002 90033 Do you have any tips to add on when to harvest potatoes? Leave them in the comments below. 90034 90005 90002 For more on growing potatoes in a garden, check out these awesome articles: 90005 90002 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005 90002 SaveSave 90005.90000 When Are Potatoes Ready to Harvest? 90001 90002 90003 PHOTO: JJ Hall / Flickr 90004 90005 90003 Homegrown, freshly dug potatoes have a delicious flavor and buttery texture you probably will not find in potatoes bought from the grocery store shelf. By following this simple guide to growing and digging potatoes, a huge harvest is easier than you might think. 90004 90008 90009 Plant for a Good Potato Harvest 90010 90003 Potatoes are native to South America, where they were-and are-a staple crop for indigenous cultures.Once they arrived in Europe, plant breeders focused their efforts on creating the familiar edible tubers we’ve come to know and love today. 90004 90013 90009 90015 Select Potato Varieties 90016 90003 Hundreds of potato varieties exist, many of which boast distinct flavors, colors and textures. The first step in growing great potatoes is selecting the best variety for your climate and your tastes. Northern growers plant their potatoes in the spring for late-summer / fall harvests. In cooler climates, potatoes can be planted as early as two to three weeks before the average last-frost date in spring, but only if the soil has dried out a bit.Planting potatoes in wet soil can lead to rot. In the South, spuds are planted in late winter for a spring harvest, or in late-summer for a late-fall harvest. While most potato varieties do well in various climates, check with your cooperative extension or a few fellow gardeners to discover the best choices for your part of the country. 90004 90015 Prepare Seed Potatoes 90016 90003 Once you’ve selected a variety, purchase certified disease-free seed potatoes from a reputable source. These small tubers are not truly seeds but rather small, mature potatoes that are planted in the ground like seeds.90004 90003 Before planting, cut seed potatoes into pieces. Each piece should contain at least one “eye” and be about the size of a half-dollar coin. These eyes are what sprout when you leave a potato in the cupboard too long. They’re easily found by searching the seed potato for small, dark indentations or, if the eye has already begun to sprout, swollen bumps. 90004 90003 After the seed potatoes have been cut into pieces, let them rest on the kitchen counter for a few hours to a few days before planting.This encourages a layer of callus tissue to form over the cut and helps prevent rot. 90004 90015 Prepare Planting Sites 90016 90029 Susy Morris / Flickr 90003 Select a potato planting site that receives full sun, and work plenty of compost into the area. Potatoes prefer a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5, and soil that is well-drained. Waterlogged soils will cause the tubers to rot. Choose a spot, if possible, where other members of the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers, have not been grown within the past few years.90004 90015 Choose a Planting Method 90016 90003 Many methods of planting potatoes exist: 90004 90036 90037 Plant the tubers in rows, 6 inches deep and 12 inches apart. 90038 90037 Dig a 10-inch-deep trench. Space the tubers at 12-inch intervals down its length, covering them only with a light layer of soil. Gradually fill in the trench as the plants grow. 90038 90037 Plant three to five seed potatoes in a mound of soil. 90038 90043 90015 Hill Your Potatoes 90016 90003 Regardless of which planting method you choose, hilling your potatoes is a necessary practice.Because the tubers are produced at the base of the plant just beneath the soil’s surface, hilling or mounding soil up around the base of the growing plants results in better potato yields and shields the developing tubers from light. 90004 90003 Hilling increases the underground surface area for tuber production, but an alternative to this process is to simply mulch your potato plants with a thick, 8- to 10-inch layer of straw. Not only does the straw layer serve to increase the underground surface area, but it also suppresses weeds and cuts down on the need for watering.90004 90015 Wait for the Harvest 90016 90003 As your potato crop continues to grow, aside from regularly watering your spuds, there’s little to do until harvest time. 90004 90008 New versus Mature Potatoes 90010 90056 Susy Morris / Flickr 90003 Potato harvesting can take place at two different times. If you’d like to harvest new potatoes-the young, immature potatoes whose skin has not yet hardened-for immediate consumption, the plants are ready for harvesting as soon as they start to produce flowers.Most gardeners sneak a few new potatoes from the edges of the growing plants by gently digging around with a gloved hand. You can easily harvest a handful of new potatoes while still leaving the plant intact for continued tuber production. 90004 90003 To harvest mature potatoes, look for a different set of clues. These tubers take a bit longer to develop, and there are a few necessary practices to ensure the spuds are truly ready for harvest and storage. 90004 90008 Signs Your Potatoes Are Ready To Harvest 90010 90003 Soon after your potato plants reach maturity, they come into flower.This signals that tuber formation has begun. The plants continue to grow for the next several months, and eventually the leaves and stems start to turn yellow and flop over. Mature storage potatoes are ready for harvesting a few weeks after the foliage has turned brown and died back completely. Tubers left in the ground have time to thicken their skins and properly cure before the harvest. This curing period is critical because harvesting potatoes early can cut down on their shelf life, whereas properly cured potatoes can be stored for many months.90004 90008 Tips for Harvesting 90010 90067 Susy Morris / Flickr 90003 Once digging time arrives, the real fun begins. A ritual akin to digging for gold, potato harvesting is easy. 90004 90070 90037 90072 Use the Right Tools: 90073 A digging fork or a three- or four-pronged potato hoe helps to gently pry up each plant. 90038 90037 90072 Work Methodically: 90073 Start around the outside of the hill and work your way closer to the base of the plant. Get way down under the plant so you do not spear any spuds.90038 90037 90072 Pick and Dig: 90073 As you pry and lift each plant out of the soil, the tubers are unearthed. Simply pick them up as they’re discovered, and use your hands to dig around in the loosened soil for any remaining potatoes. 90038 90037 90072 Stay Dry: 90073 Harvest potatoes on a dry day if possible; it’s easier on you, the soil and the potatoes themselves. 90038 90037 90072 Eat Damaged Potatoes Quickly: 90073 Damaged potatoes need to be consumed within a few days of harvesting.90038 90091 90008 Preparing Your Potatoes for Storage 90010 90094 Elizabeth Weller / Flickr 90003 Once your potatoes have been harvested, brush off any excess soil with your hands. Be careful not to bruise or break each potato’s skin, and do not wash potatoes before storing. 90004 90015 The Curing Stage 90016 90003 Allow your dug potatoes to rest in a single layer for three or four days in a well-ventilated, dry location. Once they have rested, they’re ready for storage. 90004 90015 Root Cellar Storage 90016 90003 Potatoes are best stored in dark, cold conditions; between 45 and 55 degrees F is best.A dark, well-ventilated root cellar is a great place, but not everyone has one. If a root cellar is not an option, put your harvested potatoes in a wicker or plastic basket, a brown paper bag, or a cardboard box and store it in a dark basement or cool garage. Protect the tubers from light, and do not layer them in the box or basket any more than a foot or so deep. Do not freeze them or store them in a refrigerator. 90004 90015 In-Ground Storage 90016 90003 Some gardeners prefer to leave their potatoes in the ground for storage and dig them only as needed.This is possible where the ground does not freeze or become waterlogged with autumn rains. For this method, put a thick layer of fresh straw over the plants after they have died back, and dig the tubers up as needed. Some gardeners might experience a high rate of rot in potatoes stored in-ground, particularly during periods of wet weather. Also, potatoes stored in the ground are left vulnerable to voles, chipmunks, mice and other tuber-munching mammals that enjoy burrowing under the straw mulch. 90004 90008 Problems With Potatoes 90010 90111 Irene Kightley / Flickr 90003 Potatoes can be a trouble-free crop if you follow a few simple practices, though they’re not immune to typical garden problems.Here are some you might face. 90004 90070 90037 90072 Insect Pests: 90073 To protect growing plants from foliage-munching Colorado potato beetles and flea beetles, cover the plants with a layer of floating row cover. These two pests can affect yields by reducing the amount of photosynthesis taking place in the leaves. It’s important to control them, if possible. 90038 90037 90072 Garden Rodents: 90073 Voles and other rodents can be problematic to growers using straw mulch on their potatoes.If you find teeth marks on your harvested potatoes, you might need to set a few mousetraps inside sideways, empty tin cans to control them. 90038 90037 90072 Potato Scab: 90073 Scars, scabs, lesions, craters and thickened spots on potato skins can be a sign of potato scab, a devastating disease that leaves potatoes looking less than desirable. Alkaline soils can encourage scab, so if this disease becomes a problem, aim for a new target pH of 5.0 to 5.2. To reduce your chances of a scab infection, plant only scab-resistant potato varieties, avoid using manure to amend your potato patch, do not over-irrigate and rotate your crops.90038 90037 90072 Wireworms: 90073 If you notice small holes in your dug potatoes, wireworms might be the culprit. The soil-dwelling larvae of several different species of click beetles, wireworms tunnel into the tubers, creating shallow holes that extend into the potatoes only by about 1/2 inch. The holes are easily removed when the potatoes are peeled, but their presence can limit their storage life. Beneficial nematodes can be applied to the soil in the spring to help eliminate wireworms.Fall tillage also exposes wireworms to predators and freezing temperatures. 90038 90037 90072 Sunlight Exposure: 90073 When potato tubers are exposed to sunlight, they produce chlorophyll and solanine, a glycoalkaloid poison. Green patches on the potatoes is evidence of sunlight exposure. Although solanine is found in many different members of the tomato family, green potatoes have enough to make you sick, so avoid eating any potatoes with green patches. To prevent greening, hill your potato plants.90038 90091 90008 Saving Small Potatoes For Spring Planting 90010 90138 The Art of Doing Stuff / Flickr 90003 With a little extra effort, you can save your own seed potatoes for next year’s plantings. After harvesting, pull the smallest tubers from the bunch and store them in a dark box or bin, wrapped in layers of newspaper. Put the box or bin in a cold garage or root cellar, but do not let it freeze. The potatoes are shriveled by the time planting-time arrives next spring and they might have already sprouted, but the tubers can still be used.90004 90003 The downside to saving your own seed potatoes is the increased risk of disease. Pathogens can easily overwinter on the seed potatoes and be reintroduced to the garden. Purchasing certified disease-free seed potatoes at the start of each season avoids this problem. 90004 90008 90144 90010.